Varnya: the Ayurvedic idea of complexion and the herbs behind it
What the Charaka Samhita meant by varnya, the herbs it grouped together for the skin, and how that idea reads today.
3 min read · Updated 2026-11-14
A word with a precise meaning
Ayurveda did not have a single word for cosmetics. It had a vocabulary of actions. Herbs were twachya when they were good for the skin, keshya when they were good for the hair and varnya when they supported a healthy complexion. The idea is older than the classical texts: Ayurvedic reviews point to the Rigveda, where pastes of kushta, liquorice and nalada were already applied to the skin.
The Charaka Samhita, one of the three great classical texts, gave varnya its formal place. In the fourth chapter of its opening section, Charaka sorts medicinal plants into fifty groups of ten, each named for what the herbs do. One of them is the Varnya Mahakashaya, the ten herbs that support varna.
What "varna" meant
It would be easy to read complexion as skin colour. The classical idea is closer to radiance and evenness. Modern Ayurvedic reviews describe varna as depending on the health of skin cells and pores and, especially, on circulation in the skin. Herbs that restore the balance of those factors were called varnya, and they were used both as remedies taken by mouth and as pastes on the skin.
This matters today. Kart Naturals follows Indian advertising norms that reject fairness claims, and the varnya tradition supports that reading. The aim was skin that looks healthy and alive, not a different shade.
The herbs of the varnya group
Different commentators list the ten herbs slightly differently. Reviews consistently mention:
| Herb | Botanical name | Where you meet it today |
|---|---|---|
| Chandana (sandalwood) | Santalum album | Face packs and attars |
| Manjistha | Rubia cordifolia | Body oils and ubtans |
| Madhuka, yashtimadhu (liquorice) | Glycyrrhiza glabra | Day lotions and face packs |
| Ushira (khus, vetiver) | Chrysopogon zizanioides | Body oils, cooling waters |
Lodhra, another bark long used for the skin, appears in Sushruta's remedies for minor skin complaints alongside coriander and vacha.
Pastes, oils and powders
The classical texts describe how these herbs reached the skin. Sushruta and the Ashtanga texts mention lepa (pastes), pradeha (thicker pastes), upanaha (poultices) and medicated oils. Many Indian face packs, including the ubtan, descend from the lepa: a powder of herbs mixed with milk, rose water or aloe juice and left on the skin for a short while.
Skin as a mirror of the whole
The deepest idea in this tradition is that skin reflects overall health. Reviews of Ayurvedic cosmetology describe beauty as resting on balanced doshas, healthy tissues and good digestion, and they place routines like daily oil massage (abhyanga) and seasonal care (ritucharya) alongside the herbs. A face pack was never meant to work alone.
What modern evidence adds
Reviews note that several varnya herbs, including sandalwood, manjistha and liquorice, have been studied for their effects on pigment-forming enzymes in the laboratory. That is interesting, but laboratory findings are not the same as proven results on people. The honest summary is that the varnya group is a well-documented tradition with promising early science, not a guarantee.
Questions
Does varnya mean making skin fairer?
No. Classical texts describe varna as the healthy, even appearance of skin. Modern reviews of the concept connect it to skin cells, pores and circulation, not to changing someone's natural colour.
Which herbs are in the varnya group?
Reviews of the Charaka Samhita name herbs such as chandana (sandalwood), manjistha (Rubia cordifolia) and madhuka or yashtimadhu (liquorice) among the varnya herbs.
Where is varnya described?
In the fourth chapter of the Sutrasthana of the Charaka Samhita, as one of fifty groups of herbs (mahakashaya) organised by their action.
Sources
- Kandpal R, Joshi SC. A literary study on cosmetic care with special emphasis on Varnya Bhava in Charaka Samhita. J Ayurveda Integr Med Sci
- Panoramic study on the concept of Varna and Charakokta Varnya. Int J Ayurveda Pharma Res, 2024;12(10):66-74
- Dakhole SS, Mishra BR, Purohit HJ. A review on cosmetology in Ayurveda. J Ayurveda Integr Med Sci, 2023;8(5):165-172
- Kumar S et al. Skin care in Ayurveda: a literary review. Int Res J Pharm, 2013;4(3)
This guide is general information about traditional and natural care. It is not medical advice. For a skin, scalp or health condition, speak to a dermatologist or qualified practitioner.
