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Mulethi: licorice root in skin care

Licorice root's long history, the compounds cosmetic science studies, what reviews say about soothing and uneven tone, and safety notes.

1 min read · Updated 2026-11-14

Sweet root

Glycyrrhiza comes from the Greek for sweet root. In India it is mulethi or yashtimadhu, used in Ayurveda for the throat and, in pastes, for the skin.

The compounds that matter

A 2022 review in Cosmetics names three most-investigated compounds: licochalcone A, glabridin and dehydroglyasperin C, alongside glycyrrhizin. Most activity is attributed to licorice flavonoids.

What research shows

Reviews describe antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, photoprotective and soothing activity. Licorice extracts are widely used in cosmetics aimed at sensitive skin and uneven-looking tone. Clinical studies with licochalcone A formulas have examined acne-prone and sensitive skin, typically together with other ingredients, which makes licorice's own share hard to isolate.

A note on how we talk about tone

Much licorice marketing promises whiter skin. We do not. Healthy skin comes in every shade; licorice is better described as a soothing botanical for skin that looks uneven or irritated.

Safety

Topical use is generally well tolerated. Patch test, and remember that warnings about eating large amounts of licorice relate to diet, not to skin care.

This guide is general information, not medical advice.

Questions

What is glabridin?

A flavonoid from licorice root studied for antioxidant activity and for effects on pigment-producing enzymes.

Is licorice root safe on skin?

Topical licorice extract is widely used in cosmetics and generally well tolerated. Eating large amounts of licorice is a separate issue with known risks.

Does Kart Naturals use licorice?

Not in the current range. We include this guide because mulethi is a classic Ayurvedic skin herb readers ask about.

Sources

  1. Cerulli A et al. Licorice (Glycyrrhiza glabra, G. uralensis, and G. inflata) and Their Constituents as Active Cosmeceutical Ingredients. Cosmetics 2022;9(1):7
  2. Pastorino G et al. Liquorice (Glycyrrhiza glabra): A phytochemical and pharmacological review. Phytother Res 2018;32(12):2323-2339

This guide is general information about traditional and natural care. It is not medical advice. For a skin, scalp or health condition, speak to a dermatologist or qualified practitioner.

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