Hair oiling: the science behind an Indian ritual
Why oiling before a hair wash reduces damage, according to a well-known study from an Indian laboratory.
2 min read · Updated 2026-11-14
Champi, explained
The weekly head massage with warm oil is one of the most familiar rituals in Indian homes. It comes from abhyanga, the daily oiling of body and head described in Ayurveda. For a long time the benefits were simply passed down. Then, in the late 1990s and early 2000s, researchers at Marico's laboratory in Mumbai put hair oiling under the microscope.
The 2003 study
Aarti Rele and R. B. Mohile compared three oils widely used in Indian hair oils:
- Coconut oil, the traditional choice in much of India.
- Sunflower oil, the second most common base oil.
- Mineral oil, popular because it is cheap and not greasy.
They treated hair tresses with each oil before and after washing, then measured how much protein the hair lost during combing. They repeated the tests on undamaged hair and on hair damaged by bleaching, boiling water and UV light.
What they found
Coconut oil was the only oil that markedly reduced protein loss, for both undamaged and damaged hair, and both as a pre-wash and a post-wash treatment. Sunflower oil and mineral oil did not help.
Why coconut oil is different
The explanation lies in the molecule. Coconut oil is mostly a triglyceride of lauric acid, which is small and has a straight chain, and it has a strong affinity for hair proteins. An earlier study from the same team showed it penetrates into the hair cortex. Mineral oil, a hydrocarbon, does not penetrate at all, and sunflower oil's bulkier, kinked molecules stay on the surface.
| Oil | Penetrates the hair? | Reduced protein loss? |
|---|---|---|
| Coconut | Yes | Yes, markedly |
| Sunflower | No | No |
| Mineral | No | No |
Why before washing works best
Hair swells when it gets wet, and the swelling and drying cycle lifts and chips the cuticle. A coat of coconut oil before washing slows water uptake, and a little is absorbed while the fibre is swollen, which reduces that chipping.
A simple oiling routine
- Warm a little oil between your palms.
- Massage it into the scalp with your fingertips, then smooth it down the lengths.
- Leave it for at least an hour, or overnight.
- Wash with a mild cleanser and condition the ends.
Kart Naturals' hair oils use coconut milk with green almond, brahmi and other herbs in this traditional style.
Questions
Should I oil hair before or after washing?
Before. In the study, coconut oil worked as both a pre-wash and post-wash treatment, but the pre-wash routine was the more protective.
Do sunflower or mineral oil work the same way?
Not in this study. Neither reduced protein loss, which the researchers linked to their molecular structure.
Does oiling prevent hair loss?
The study measured damage to the hair fibre, not hair growth or hair loss from the scalp. It supports oiling for stronger, less damaged lengths.
Sources
- Rele AS, Mohile RB. Effect of mineral oil, sunflower oil, and coconut oil on prevention of hair damage. J Cosmet Sci 2003;54(2):175-92
- Ruetsch SB, Kamath YK, Rele AS, Mohile RB. Secondary ion mass spectrometric investigation of penetration of coconut and mineral oils into human hair fibers. J Cosmet Sci 2001;52:169-84
This guide is general information about traditional and natural care. It is not medical advice. For a skin, scalp or health condition, speak to a dermatologist or qualified practitioner.
