How to patch test natural skin and hair products

Why we ask you to patch test

Natural does not mean reaction-free. Herbs and essential oils are complex mixtures, and some of their compounds are known skin sensitisers. The American Academy of Dermatology points out that even products labelled hypoallergenic, natural or clean can cause a skin reaction.

The home test, step by step

Pick a spot that will not be rubbed or washed: the inner forearm or the bend of the elbow.
Use a normal amount, about the size of a coin, applied as thickly as you would normally.
Repeat twice a day for seven to ten days for leave-on products such as lotions and oils.
For wash-off products such as face washes, lepas and body washes, leave them on for your usual time, then rinse.
Watch for redness, itching, swelling or bumps. If none appear, go ahead.

Special cases

Lepas and ubtans: mix as you would for use and test the paste.
Essential oils: never test neat. Test the finished, diluted product.
Herbal hair colour: test 48 hours before every application, even if you have used it before, and strand test for colour.
Children: test any product on a small area first and ask your paediatrician if your child has eczema or allergies.

If something goes wrong

Wash the product off gently and stop using it. A cool compress can help. If the reaction is strong or does not settle, see a dermatologist, who can identify the cause with formal patch testing.

This guide is general information, not medical advice.

Questions

Why do natural products need a patch test?

Plants contain many active compounds, including fragrance compounds such as linalool, that can cause irritation or allergy. Dermatologists note that products labelled natural or hypoallergenic can still trigger reactions.

How long should I test?

For leave-on products, twice daily for seven to ten days. For wash-off products like face washes and lepas, leave the product on the test spot for about as long as you normally would, then rinse.

What if I react?

Wash the product off gently, stop using it and soothe the area with a cool compress. If the reaction is severe or does not settle, see a dermatologist, who can do formal patch testing.

Does a clear patch test mean a product is safe on my face?

Not completely. Facial skin can be more sensitive, so introduce the product slowly and stop if you notice irritation.

This guide is general information about traditional and natural care. It is not medical advice. For a skin, scalp or health condition, speak to a dermatologist or qualified practitioner.